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Tiller Play

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garethd View Drop Down
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Joined: 03 Feb 2011
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Post Options Post Options   Quote garethd Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Tiller Play
    Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 12:34pm

The tiller on my CO 32 has developed about 6” of ‘play’ before becoming effective.  It feels quite loose and, before taking anything apart I wondered if there is any obvious answer.   The tiller itself is fixed quite firmly to the block at its base but it is difficult to find any more without taking things apart.   Any ideas.  GD
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George Isted View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote George Isted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10 Aug 2015 at 3:45pm
Hi Gareth,
Did this come-on all of a sudden or has is gradually become worse?

If you are lucky it could just be that the key in the top taper is worn.

Unfortunately, I suspect that the tangs that are welded to the rudder stock have failed inside the rudder. This is allowing the rudder stock to rotate inside the rudder moulding. What's left of the weld could be all that's allowing you to steer.

If can be fixed but it requires cutting away the GRP around the tangs and then getting it welded before repairing.   Or you can buy a replacement rudder from Rogers Yachts.

I suggest you investigate ASAP!
George Isted
Contessa 32 "Concerto"
Co32 Class Captain and Measurer.
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CO923 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CO923 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2015 at 7:13pm
Hi Gareth

This is probably far too late for you, but we had a similar problem with play in the tiller on ours (CO923, Peak Flow, late 1990's build). There was a much simpler cause, and a much simpler solution. The previous owner had regularly had to tighten up the tiller. Glen, one of my co-owners, is a dinghy sailor and was completely intolerant of having to do this! 

 The problem was, on our boat anyway the tiller is held on by a quite large hex bolt, and there was just a plain washer between the bolt and the bit of the tiller it was holding on to the rudder post. This meant that every time you pulled the tiller to port, you were tending to undo the bolt; there was no corresponding tightening process when you pushed there tiller to starboard, so it got loose over time. We fixed the problem by putting an O-ring and an extra washer under the head of the bolt. This increases the "pre-load" on the bolt a lot, and reduces the friction slightly, so that the bolt stays tight. I don't think we have had to tighten it since, and there's no longer any play in the tiller.

I hope this helps.

Best regards

Hillary

(Mr) Hillary Sillitto, Edinburgh
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CO923 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote CO923 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Dec 2015 at 7:15pm
I've just re-read your original post and I see that since "the tiller itself is quite firmly fixed to the block at tits base", this probably isn't the solution in your case. 
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moongirl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote moongirl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 15 Dec 2015 at 9:45pm
Again probably too late but have a look at my drawing on the Website. It shows the rudder stock with welded on tangs. On older boats the tangs were in a foam that was not closed cell & prone to turning to mush - I test the rudders by drilling say a 6mm hole in the toe of the blade & if water & mush come out that often signals the demise of the foam! On some boats it has been possible to chop out the glass in the vicinity of the tangs & re-glassing but it's also possible that the tang welds have gone & that normally demands a new rudder.
COLIN
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Richard Ritchie View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Richard Ritchie Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 16 Dec 2015 at 9:06am
One further option:
The nut tightens down  the bronze tiller block over a cone at the top of the rudder post.  If you have allowed wear (or thekey has worn away) , then a step develops in the bronze head and no amount of tightening will actually make it grip.  Robin Sims now has a reamer made up for this, and mine has never moved since.
But yours sounds like much too much movement for this simple solution.
Richard Ritchie
Badger of Baltimore
IRL 120
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