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Rudder bottom bracket screws loose

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St Paddy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote St Paddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Rudder bottom bracket screws loose
    Posted: 08 May 2012 at 8:08am
I agree the rudder should be suspended not sitting on the heel plate. There should be a delrin thrust washer machined to suit.  I'm happy to post one if you tell me how thick it should be
 
 
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michaelforrest View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote michaelforrest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 2:19pm
Hi, sorry to re-ignite this post but I have exactly the problem descirbed and wondered what was done as the final solution to the problem. The boat is in Italy and im heading back in June and want to make sure I have everything I might need with me.

Many thanks

Michael
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St Paddy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote St Paddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 3:13pm

Hi Michael

Hope the pump handle was ok.

The best fix is to open out the holes to the next screw size, They were originally 5/16 whitworth. I would open them to M10 and clean everything up and sikaflex the plate on and use new M10 socket cap head screws. Try to keep the screws clean. You will need to open the holes in the plate to clear the screws.

Have you cut of the cover yet, If not just use a hack saw. you can see the line of the plate, cut onto it you can then feel the blade hit the stainless plate, this gives you have a clean cut and easy to refit, inch tape and epoxy. If you want to discuss this phone me on 07764 188815

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George Isted View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote George Isted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 4:20pm
Hi St Paddy, I'm pretty sure that most/all of the weight of my rudder is sitting on the heel plate, if I understand your email correctly you suggest putting a delrin washer between the top bearing of the rudder shaft and the block at the top (so the block is sharing the weight with the heel fitting).
George Isted
www.solentboatbutler.co.uk
Contessa 32 "Concerto"
Co32 Class Measurer and ex Class Captain.
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St Paddy View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote St Paddy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 5:11pm

non of the weight should be on the heel plate. All should be taken by the Bronze block on top.

On older boats this was a fabricated stainless block, but still the same design.

If the rudder sits on the heel plate then the laminate and lay-up is wearing away on the stainless plate.

I have fitted a delryn thrust washer between the bronze block and the stainless flange of the rudder tube.

I might have machined some of the bronze off to get the heights right, I can't remember. I can remember having it up in the lathe. I think you will have space for a thrust washer if only a thin one.

I think the stock is 1 1/4 and the block might be 2 inch or a bit bigger, I can check. You will need a imperial socket to undo the centre bolt in the block. I can tell you the size later when I check mine. remember to take it out with you, I can machine you a selection pack and post it, if you like.

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michaelforrest View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote michaelforrest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 30 Apr 2013 at 6:46pm
Hi Robin (St Paddy)

The pump was excellent thanks a million for that

About the rudder, I thought id carry on the discussion on here as it may help others in the future. I've never tapped a hole in my life, for tapping epoxy do i use a steel hand tap? Any tips on where to buy one. I could probably borrow one from the yard in Italy but they charge for everything and will just moan about me doing the work etc. so i'd rather just do it myself.

I'm guessing i might need to ask them to open up the existing holes in the heel plate though.

The rudder was replaced by the previous owner in 2007 but I don't think the bottom bracket was changed at the time. I'm waiting for a reply to my email to confirm this but it's perhaps time this was changed too (1979 boat) Do you know what the hole sizes are in the new brackets sold by Jeremy Rogers? It will be easier for me to take out the new plate withe the bigger holes in it as long as it's a like for like swap.

So many people with this problem maybe should do a technical paper on this alone.

Thanks as always

Michael
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George Isted View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote George Isted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01 May 2013 at 9:46am

Hi Robin (St Paddy),

thanks for the offer, what you have said makes complete sense and I had noticed a small amount of wear so it deserves some attention.  

 

I'm probably going to take the rudder off next winter so that the cutlass bearing can be replaced so I'll drop you a note nearer the time if that's ok, I’ll need to measurer the gap between top bearing and the bronze block.

 

Thanks again.

George Isted
www.solentboatbutler.co.uk
Contessa 32 "Concerto"
Co32 Class Measurer and ex Class Captain.
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moongirl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote moongirl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 02 May 2013 at 8:07pm
I have posted on this subject before! Whilst buying s/s bolts @ CP Fastenings in Southsea I spotted s/s helicoil inserts & thought they might be the answer to poor set screw fixings in the GRP part of the Skeg. Having a large ribbed surface it would seem that gluing them in with epoxy would give a very strong base for the screws.
COLIN
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