CONTESSA 32 ASSOCIATION Homepage
Forum Home Forum Home > Technical Help > Engine, Gearbox, Stern Gear, etc
  New Posts New Posts RSS Feed: Engine Beds
  FAQ FAQ  Forum Search   Calendar   Register Register  Login Login

Engine Beds

 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>
Author
Message
Zoom 495 View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 29 Sep 2014
Location: BC Canada
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 42
Post Options Post Options   Quote Zoom 495 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Engine Beds
    Posted: 11 Sep 2015 at 6:36pm
Hello all.
I am getting a tremendous amount of vibration and the aft motor mounts on my Volvo MD2030 are starting to come adrift. The installation of this unit (by a shipyard no less) is terrible. I suspect it was done poorly as to do it correctly the motor may have to be mounted further forward and therefor needing a longer shaft. Questions are please:
   Does anyone have such a beast mounted in their boat, and if so, is it possible to get a photo of it to show relative location of the motor?
    Can I effectively install a spacer or flex coupling to potentially extend the shaft length, thus being able to do the re-mount without removing the shaft?
    My Contessa was built in 1977. Will the shaft be a metric size on an imperial size?
Thank you and fair winds,kris
Back to Top
Keny View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 29 Aug 2010
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 75
Post Options Post Options   Quote Keny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Sep 2015 at 7:57pm
Hello Zoom
Are your engine beds solid like your coupling - this would be somewhat unusual in a Contessa ? If so I would suggest that it has just gone out of alignment.
keny

Back to Top
moongirl View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 23 Aug 2009
Location: SOUTHSEA
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 240
Post Options Post Options   Quote moongirl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Sep 2015 at 5:38pm
Am I correct in believing that you are suggesting moving the engine fwd? I can see that this would be a problem as the end of the engine installation is pretty close to the vertical enclosing panel!
Questions:
1 what seal do you have where the shaft leaves the GRP?
2 is there any flexible connection in the shaft?

It is possible to undo the engine mounts + shaft & to slide the engine fwd to be able to lift the engine & renew the mounts. I did just that using old sheets fixed in a loop around the front mounts & mast - I then picked the ropes up like 2 suitcases & the engine slid easily up the beds sufficient to clear the shaft. This was on a Yanmar 3GM20 which may not be quite the same!
COLIN
Back to Top
Zoom 495 View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 29 Sep 2014
Location: BC Canada
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 42
Post Options Post Options   Quote Zoom 495 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 6:24pm
Hello Colin, and thanks for your reply.
Zoom has a traditional stuffing box with no flex coupling, just two mating flanges. The front of the engine is easily 14-18 inches from the forward vertical panel of the engine compartment. I believe Zoom came from England with an older Volvo and perhaps the transmission on that engine was longer enabling the motor mounts to be further forward? Presently, the rear motor mounts are pinched toward the centre line of the vessel at the extreme rear of the engine beds, and so of course, the rubber is broken on both of them. I have not surveyed the shaft or stern bearing and will do that before doing any renovations, but the mounts will need replacing no matter what I do. 
All of the help I have received here has made working on Zoom so much easier than it would have been just fumbling through bit on my own! Thanks again,kris 
Back to Top
Keny View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 29 Aug 2010
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 75
Post Options Post Options   Quote Keny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 20 Sep 2015 at 7:17pm
Hello Zoom
I must say that it is not good to have a solid coupling with flexible mounts which is what i believe you have. 
I think you're answer is to fit a proper rubber coupling with a 30mm spacer. The spacer will enable you to change the coupling without disturbing the engine or the rudder.
You should also get a much quieter ride.
keny
p.s. see technical papers 2014
Back to Top
Zoom 495 View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 29 Sep 2014
Location: BC Canada
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 42
Post Options Post Options   Quote Zoom 495 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 12:29am
Thanks Keny.
I read the technical paper and it refers to a Centaflex M127 coupling. It
 makes sense to me that an  engine with flexible mounts and a very short propeller shaft would be connected via a flex coupling. Is this model the one I should get? With the coupling and the spacer, the engine will be moved forward in the neighborhood of 30 plus a few mm which may give the rear motor mounts the room to be mounted properly. I hope...
Thanks again for the help. It looks like Zoom may go ashore for a few weeks this winter. 
Back to Top
doug View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 05 Aug 2009
Location: Plymouth
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 88
Post Options Post Options   Quote doug Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 22 Sep 2015 at 9:50pm
Hello Zoom,
I fitted a Centaflex M127 about 6 years ago and it has been fine. It uses a collet to grip the shaft and so is easy to disconnect should you need to do so. The boat almost certainly would have left the factory with a 1" shaft but anything could have been done since so it is important to measure it for the correct fitting. Also the correct flange for your Volvo.
A spacer may well do the trick however If you found you had to fit a new propshaft, they are not too expensive if you go to a general engineering shop, rather than a fancy marine one.   
This means a lot of extra work but you would have an opportunity to check out your rudder bearings, propshaft bearing and stuffing box at the same time. I found the shaft very wasted under my stuffing box - an accident waiting to happen.
Good luck with it.
Back to Top
George Isted View Drop Down
Moderator Group
Moderator Group
Avatar

Joined: 08 May 2009
Location: Solent
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 374
Post Options Post Options   Quote George Isted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 9:14am
I fitted a Centaflex flexible coupling two winters ago, this was because my 2GM engine seems to bounce around more than I would like in it's mountings and it did have an almost rigid coupling to the shaft. No problems so far.   I can't remember the exact model but M127 sounds familiar.
George Isted
www.solentboatbutler.co.uk
Contessa 32 "Concerto"
Co32 Class Measurer and ex Class Captain.
Back to Top
Keny View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 29 Aug 2010
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 75
Post Options Post Options   Quote Keny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 23 Sep 2015 at 9:38am
Hello Zoom
Just to add to others. You will have to move the engine further forward anyway to provide the room for whatever you fit as a coupling. I have a 3 cyl. also and will measure how forward it is for you next time I visit my boat.
I agree with Doug that the shafts are the easy bit and also wear the most. I knock mine out at £30 a go!
keny

Back to Top
Keny View Drop Down
CO32 Members
CO32 Members


Joined: 29 Aug 2010
Online Status: Offline
Posts: 75
Post Options Post Options   Quote Keny Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 26 Sep 2015 at 6:20pm
Hello Zoom
As promised the distance between my front pulley and the step panel is about 4 inches. The layout would probably benefit from moving it further forward by another 2 inches which may happen this winter.
keny

Back to Top
 Post Reply Post Reply Page  12>

Forum Jump Forum Permissions View Drop Down