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cutlass bearing

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George Isted View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote George Isted Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: cutlass bearing
    Posted: 11 Apr 2012 at 11:57am
Sounds like a plan to me.
 
Remember to put a small piece of earthing wire between the two metal parts of the coupling to ensure your hull anode is connected to the prop (not a problem if you have a darglow feathering prop with it's own anode).
George Isted
Contessa 32 "Concerto"
Co32 Class Captain and Measurer.
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GlennG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlennG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11 Apr 2012 at 10:06pm
For what it's worth,  Perle has an Aquadrive between the shaft and 2GM20.  Still hasn't stopped the cutlass bearing wearing!
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GlennG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlennG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2012 at 4:49pm
I've just been told that the type of 'cutlass bearing' fitted to Contessa 32's are prone to a certain amount of wear which settles down after a while.

My bearing has about 3mm of vertical movement,  but negligible sideways movement.  Is this normal?

Also,  where do we source these bearings?
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waratah912 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote waratah912 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12 Apr 2012 at 10:49pm
If it's the original Tufnol type bearing, Jeremy R will supply you one. We were changing these regularly until I replaced the shaft about 5 years ago and haven't had any trouble since still virtually no play. Cost of the shaft was only about 50% more than the bearing so definitely a good investment. Seems that the wear in the shaft was signficantly reducing bearing life.
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GlennG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlennG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 12:37am
Rats.  The shaft was replaced only three years ago with the 'new' bearing.

I'll call Jeremy tomorrow to get a replacement.
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Alan Dixon View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote Alan Dixon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 13 Apr 2012 at 8:48am
When I re engined Charlotte (2005) the Engineer who helped me advised that the Tufnol bearing was suitable for the 12 hp Petter, but not for the 25 hp Vetus. He advised a standard cutlass water fed from the deep sea seal that we also fitted at the time. This thread leads me to the thought that perhaps he is right and the tufnol is not up to the 20 + hp engines we are now sporting now. Any other thoughts?

Alan Dixon "Charlotte"
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GlennG View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote GlennG Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 1:56am
I spoke to Fiona earlier.  The Tufnol bearings are in stock for £68+VAT.  Important to know if the shaft is 25mm or 25.4mm.  I thought I'd measured it as 25.1mm,  i.e. 25mm with some tolerance.  Now I'm not so sure so I'll measure twice:-)

As the rudder's off for the bottom bracket and the stern gland is being replaced with a PSS,  I may as well change the bearing.

A thought about the higher HP engines;  we'd probably not use the higher power as there's the hull speed to contend with and that's that.  The main thing is a decent three bladed prop.  Since fitting the current 3 bladed 13.5 x 13 the engine won't overrev and she's pushed along nicely at just over 6kts flat out and 5.3 for an easy life.  And that great kick to port in astern;  terrific for maneuvering (her specialty is her 'handbrake turn' to starboard).
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NickVBaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote NickVBaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 5:43pm
HELP! Nothing is as it seems! 

Went down to French Herring today armed with studding and washers to extract old cutlass and found (1)  the internal diameter of the inbord end of the tube is much less than 1.5"so I couldn't get the washer down, and (2) investigating the other end, I found that the neoprene insert is only 2" long INSTEAD OF 4", and that there is no edge of the brass housing for as far back as I can detect with a piece of wire.

And (3) the shaft emerges from what looks like a brass insert (presumably the cutlass housing) let into a bronze flange with two set screws into the skeg. No sign of any other grub screws etc.

This seems to be all a bit non-standard to me.

PS There is a Volvo seal on the inboard of the tube with an ID of about 45mm.



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moongirl View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote moongirl Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 6:09pm
Nick
sounds like you have the 'old' style shaft tube. Are the set screws one above and below the shaft outlet & parallel to the c/l of the boat? Have a look at my drawing in the Technical section - it shows the earlier bronze shaft tube arrangement with the Tufnol bearing pushed into the end.
I think our former Magazine Editor Annie used a bit of broom handle to knock the Tufnol bearing out of the tube (from the inside) 
COLIN
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NickVBaker View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Quote NickVBaker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 14 Apr 2012 at 6:40pm
Dear Colin - thank you for your quick reply.

Yes, it is a flange as in type A, but it isn't a tuffnol bearing but a short cutlass bearing (2"). And, the other mystery, is that I couln't use Annie's broomstick because (a) I couldn't get it into the tube at the inboard end, and (b), there is no "edge" to the cutlass bearing housing to engage with the broomstick. It seems that the stern tube might have a short length where the diameter is greater to house the tufnol bearing, and maybe a special cutlass bearing has been used.

Should I undo the set screws and try to remove the whole tube?

By the way the boat was built in 1977 - no 540, and she has spent most of her life in France (which could account for anything!
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